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From: blacksheep (Rep: 335)Date: 12/13/2008 10:33
Forum: The Best Of Gonabe - Msg #9Thread #672450899 (Rec: 0)
Is the mystery solved?
If I'm lying, I'm dying! ... Sheepman Jack

Unicycle ,,way cool!
Those things amaze & mystify me.
I can't even Hold one up with my hands standing next to it,,lol
Place I grew up had a nearby town which was very small &rural.
So small that elementary grades, jr. hi,and hi school were all combined,,,and they Still didn't have enough kids of any age group to have any kind of Sports Team.

Except Unicycle,,,no kiddin'.
P.E. /Gym Class was "the Unicycle team",,,and EVERY Kid of Every description that went to that school learned how to ride a uni-.
They had a exhibition team,,and stunt riders,etc,etc
Most all the kids could ride better than most people can walk/run/stand.

Then we've got some guys 'round my current home town who ride the 5',6',7' tall ones,,,,,,which is just absolutely incomprehensible to me.
More Amazing than Magic

About your 65,,,,

Those engines were FILLED with slack,,,from engine to rear wheel.

Odds of a problem with shift drum are next to ZERO.

What You're feeling is the Old Double-Dog 2nd Drive Gear on Mainshaft,,(as in,,"Double Dog Dare Ya to try to Speed Shift it!")
Seriously,,They Really did only have 2 dogs.
and the Old BOLT-IN shift fork drive pins.

All eventually superceded,,,to a 4Dog Gear and actual clip retained Roller Pins.

If bike has been gone into,,,
there's a Slim Possibility of "That Left Over Washer" laying on the bench.
Not an unusual Ommission.
Bike WILL Shift without it,,but is intermittently REALLY crappy feeling,,,and in certain conditions it sure can make 'em grind into gear-----more of a "clatter" than a grind,actually.

Look over by Countershaft Sprocket,,,Directly above it.
NOT the Neutral Light Switch.
But the Rubber Plug .
There's supposed to be a Bolt with a "Hardened Washer" in that cavity.

What that is ,,is the Shift Drum Retainer/LOCATOR.
Without it,,,shift drum stays Basically in place---but it exhibits a BUNCH of end-float especially when shifting.
The effect is quite similar to "bent shift fork",,,causing only partial engagement of the gear dogs.

Yours most probably has all that in good order.
But,,,it's Possibility,,,and easy to check.
And if it Is DOES cause odd shifting.

Very Easy to fix,,,just screw in a plain 6mm Bolt,,,and really "Best " to use a Hard Washer.
Any Honda dealer has those washers,,,they retained ALL the ignition advancers thru 60's 70's 80's.
Most Hardware stores have a 6mm or 1/4" equivalent.

Another thing which gets sloppy and causes tuff shifting----
But not very often the problem on Majority of Hondas,,,
is the "Shift Drum Stopper Lever"
It's a little arm with a small roller on the end of it.
That it Actually the Index Stop which locates the Drum into proper position per-gear-selected.
It ALSO is what actually Completes the Shift intitiated by rider's foot......long story we'll skip here.

But it Does assist Shift completion,,as well as "Latching it into the Selected Gear".

ROLLER Wear on those things is OFTEN a culprit on Most Jap Bikes of that era.
Even back when the bikes were New,,,6 months,,a year old,etc.

They are Allways Spring Loaded,,,and the SPRING was rarely ever a problem.
But we replaced them arbitrarily when installing new stopper lever,,"just because".

Consider that in 1965,,,I had Never seen a 40~45 year old Spring.
Nor in '75,,or '85.
As time marched on,,of course I saw increasingly aged ones.
And they All SEEMED to still be holding up OK.
BUT,,I also was no longer seeing 50~100 of them Weekly,,,a 1,000++ a year.

A Coil Spring in service eventually fails from Operation Cycles.
They'll also fail from SITTING static under load----they take a "set" and lose preloaded tension.

I Seriously DOUBT that Stopper Lever Spring is bad,,or even un-useably weakened.
But it IS a distinct possible after having sat static under load for so long.

Their strength is "marginal" even when brand new.

A Little wear on the Lever coupled with a Little weakness in the Spring can Absolutely cause Shift Difficulties.

If Your trans Does shift thru the gears,,,and STAYS in gear once it's finally engaged,,,
Odds are only less than maybe 5% there's any problem with the Transmission /shift drum/forks .

But if it's shifting crappy,,,about a 75%+% chance it needs the detent assy replaced--theStopper Lever and it's spring.

Clutches on those things are way sloppy.
Which is sorta a Good Thing.
Very Rarely does misadjustment account for shift quality probs.
But,,as with ANY clutch,,,adjustment CAN affect shifting.

They have a compound lever clutch release system.
Simple to figure out when looking at it,,,and simple to adjust.
It allows a relatively broad range of adjustment while still providing plenty of travel @the clutch for a clean ,,no-drag break.

--Pull the Round Plate off R/Hand engine cover
_Disconnect Cable from clutch arm on engine(It's just easier to get a good feel,,,,NOT necessary)
-Use the central adjuster screw in there,to allow Cable Arm on engine to go DOWN as far as possible.
-Which usually means screwing AdjusterScrew IN.
If it bottoms out upon the Cluch,,back it off 1 full turn or so.And make certain it doesnt turn back In when tightening it's lock nut.

--the Inline/Mid-Cable adjuster will need to be screwed In to re-install the cable.
Make and needed "fine adjustments" with the CABLE.

All that can be Tricky,,it's a balance of the various adjustments.
Thing to strive for is this:
1)Keep CableLever on engine adjusted DOWN far as possible
2)maintain Some freeplay between Adjuster Screw and Actual Clutch Assy

that yields the largest amount of throw-out mechanism travel available to break open clutch cleanly&Fully when Clutch hand Lever is pulled.

Note:as with All Bikes,,,,the Freeplay in the Hand lever is NOT primarily a matter of Personal Choice.
Only after the Mechanism's Functional Demand's have been satisfied can the rider make minor adjustments to suit their personal prefferences.
Which means a pretty "tight" hand lever with only a Little slack.

Oil has an influence on several aspects of trans/clutch feel and function.
If it's "Too Cold" for 20w-50,,,,,too bad.
Straight 30w or 40w (if ya live in 95~100* Climate)is what I'd use.
Valvoline or Pennzoil

As fonky as your transmission seems,,,It MIGHT have issues,,,but I doubt it's anything serious or major.
They're sorta like that.

Gotta realize,,,that lil box SEEMED Slick & Smooth as Butta in '65.
Compared to Harleys,and Triumphs,and Brit's AMC & Burmans.
THOSE are what the Experienced Riders refferenced the new wave of Jap Bikes to.

The "New Riders" back then which had no other actual experience,,REPEATED what they heard.
But they had no Real Grounds for Comparrison.

So when you HEAR,,,
"Naaaaaw,,,those old Hondas shifted GREAT!! I had one,,so I KNOW".
In Their PERCEPTION,,yeah they Did work good.
Thats ALL they KNEW.

But even by early 70's standards,,,the first 60's boxes were NOT as slick as they are Remembered to be.

They Truly DID work Great,,,COMPARATIVELY,,in their day.

But Flipping the ol',,,,"If we can send a Man to The Moon...."
Your Transmission was PRODUCED,,let alone Designed,,
a Half Decade before anybody ever got to the Moon.

So,,,MAYBE it was someone who thought,,,"If Honda can make a Transmission THIS MUCH BETTER than Triumphs and Harleys....then we oughta be able to Send a man to the Moon" :)

Seriously,,,,They were Great lil' Bikes,,had Very Good transmissions,,,
but by Todays Standards,,,and even 70's and later standards...
They Shift Clunky and quirky sometimes.
But they ARE definitely at least POSITIVE shifting when in working order.

If Much is wrong at all,,,they get Really Bad ,Quick.
And just plain wont shift thru the gears,,or stay in selected gear.

Good Luck with it,,,,what a really cool bike to have.
Even if You're Half Wrong about the condition,,,it would still be an exceptional example among the FEW which have survived.

* 1 year ago


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